Archive for September 25th, 2007

Hanoi: Traffic Gone Wild

It’s raining in Hanoi. Hence the need for me to wear this H.O.T. outfit:

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When we first arrived in Hanoi it was overcast and rained on and off throughout the day. As soon as we arrived at the hotel, we had a message waiting saying that our Halong Bay boat trip for the following day might be canceled. Indeed, it was. The weather gods have thus far not been on our side in Vietnam. We’re currently scheduled to go on a day tour of Halong Bay tomorrow, so everyone out there please pray for sunshine and calm waters.

Despite missing out on a night aboard a romantic Halong Bay cruise, this does mean we’ll get to spend an extra day in Hanoi. And Hanoi is really something.

It’s the polar opposite of Singapore. It’s illegal to j-walk in Singapore (though plenty of people did in certain neighborhoods). In Hanoi, j-walking is the only option as there are basically no traffic lights.

We were told that Hanoi’s street traffic is something to write home about, but nothing can really prepare you for this. Not even New York’s crazed intersections have anything on what’s going on outside this Internet cafe as I write. Motorbikes and bicycles fill the streets — and I mean droves and droves and droves of them. It’s unclear to me which streets are one-way and which are two-way. When you cross the street, you simply have to step slowly and allow the cars and bikes to make their way around you. It feels like navigating a busy American freeway. But there’s a weird logic to it, as well, and now that we’ve adjusted to it, I almost enjoy crossing the street. It’s like a living game of Frogger.

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Like Disney World, but Hotter

Our three days in Singapore were jam-packed with sightseeing and eating. The weather was oppressively hot and humid and I felt jet-lagged for much of it, but we managed to see most of what we wanted in the city. The streets were, as promised, squeaky clean. The metro was efficient. The people were a fascinating mix of Indian, Chinese, Malay and so on. The Night Safari was good, clean, family fun — like Disney World.

In fact, much of Singapore felt like Disney World. Organized and polished. Locals would probably say that the real Singapore lies beneath that clean and classy veneer, but the only glimpses we were afforded of that underbelly were in a few of the temples and mosques and at the hawker centres:

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This is a Buddhist temple in Chinatown, which we happened upon just in the middle of a big offering of gifts to Buddha.

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This is the smallish hawker centre by the Esplanade. It’s actually run by Singapore’s food guru guy, who I mentioned in my earlier post.

Speaking of which, though we managed to see most of the sights in Singapore, I only made it about half-way through my list of dishes to try. I successfully tasted and thoroughly enjoyed:

Fried oyster omelet
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Kaya toast, Malay-style teh
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Lobster laksa
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Char kway teoh
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Chicken rice
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Fish-head curry
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Plain prata with onion
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