jessica marmor

We had heard mixed reviews of Split. Some say its cosmopolitanism and nightlife make it yet another euro-trashy destination worthy of skipping. Some say its an architectural gem not to be missed. We stayed for 2 nights, and I found both to be true, to a certain degree. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss out on wandering through Diocletian’s Palace, shopping in the open-air markets and jewelry stores, and trolling along the waterfront with a gelato. Throughout Europe are cities where historical structures house modern life, but in Split this confluence is particularly apparent and especially enthralling. We didn’t spend much time learning about the history of Split or Diocletian’s Palace; mostly we were content to just meander and take it all in. This is, however, the kind of place where such knowledge may enhance one’s appreciation of the sights even more, so if I were to return, I might make more of an effort.

Peshteta

While traveling, both Kai and I like to find new things to obsess over. In Croatia, we found Peshteta, a tuna fish pate eaten with bread and served as an appetizer at most restaurants. We had it first in Skradin, and I remember that peshteta being by far the best. We sampled many varieties, including one at a waterfront pizza place in Split (pictured above). I know it looks here just like blobs of tuna, but it’s so much tastier than that.

We got snow last week, as you can see in this adorable photo of Taylor in front of our building, wearing his hand warmers. He was very excited to get to wear hand warmers. This is what winter in New York is all about, right? Snowflakes dotting the shoulders of your coat; lightly dusted sidewalks and tree branches; building lobbies aglow; periwinkle blue sky. Something like this:

Here’s the thing. All that urban winter wonderland stuff? This is what it quickly deteriorates into:

Yeah that’s not so pretty is it? Snow in New York City has some unfortunate aftereffects: the sidewalks turn into slippery channels of sludge; immense pools of black ice water collect at street corners and all the snow that started off so wonderland-esque gets molded into grotesque forms along the sidewalks, black with dirt and yellow with dog urine. Like the ugliest snow sculptures you’ve ever seen. Anyone who’s lived through a snow storm here knows this.

So why am I getting all Grinchy on what was, in fact, a minor little snow storm that did not in fact leave any such disgustingness behind? I guess it’s because I’m a little bit freaked at how mild this winter has been thus far. Where’s the nasty stuff and bitter cold I hyped all last Fall? I’ve barely suffered at all this winter. Maybe in part I’m getting more used to it (perish the thought). Maybe it’s global warming coming to get us. Probably it’s global warming coming to get us. But I can feel the weather gods out there, just taunting me with all this mild and 40-degrees business. What are they gearing up for? Is it possible that we’ll get through this winter without a major snow storm or prolonged period of blistering cold?